Friday, May 24, 2013

Château Haut Brion.... from the inside by *JS*

I like the logo of Chateau Haut Brion. Kind of symbolizes the grapevines
A very modest entrance to the domaine

When one thinks of Bordeaux wines, Chateau Lafite always appear first and it’s not definitely not in alphabetical order! This is not surprising as of the 4 first growth chateaus named during the inception of  the 1855 Medoc classification, 3 of them are located in Medoc and 2 of these are situated in the AOC of Paulliac and 1 in AOC of Margaux. So what happened to the 4th chateau?? Well the 4th one is Chateau Haut Brion and its not in Medoc but in Graves in the AOC of Pessac Leognan just south west of Bordeaux city.
Some facts about this chateau and her wines. Medoc was once a vast marshland and it was not until the mid 17th century that the Dutch came to Medoc and drained the marshes. Record shows that in the 15th and 16th century, when the people of Bordeaux think of wines they will head south west of the city where the gravelly sandy soil terroir produce great wines and this was way before Paulliac even existed as a vine growing commune. However of all the chateaus in Grave then, one chateau stood out for its quality........that’s Le Chateau Haut Brion. 

So grand......so magnificent!!

Apart from being blessed with the great terroir of Pessac Leognan, there are many other good reasons as to why chateau Haut Brion rose to prominence so much earlier on. One of the main attributes is the way the chateau owner was committed to good wine making and always striving and innovating to be the best. The two names worth a mention as part of the history of this chateau are Arnaud 2 de Pontac and Arnaud 3 de Pontac. So it is not surprising that when Napolean 3 commissioned the 1855 Medos classification system for the great Bordeaux wines, they really cannot ignore Chateau Haut Brion and hence it was named as a 1st growth Chateau. Infact in 1855 there was only 4 first growth chateau named....chateau Mouton Rothschild was named only later (hence today there are 5 first growth chateaus) for whatever good or no good reasons!
Monkey eager to step foot inside Chateau Haut Brion
Thats Arnaud 2 de pontac's picture on top of us
Everybody wants a picture with Arnaud
Reception area of the chateau

Production of a great grand cru wine is the convergence of what nature have to offer and human factors(ie, viticulture and viniculture). Nature provides the soil and the climate and micro climat which is the Terroir. At Haut Brion the soil and sub soil consist of large and small quartz gravel, hills, deep alluvial silt and a sub soil that is well drained. The quartz pebbles are of Pyrenean origins and washed and carried down by the rivers and glaciers during then last ice age from the Pyrenes mountain, south of Aquitaine some 1.8 to 3 million years ago at the end of the geological Tertiary era. The pebbles play a very important role in speeding up the ripening of the thick skin cabernet sauvignon grapes by absorbing heat in the day and radiating out heat during the night time which acts as a ripening catalyst.

The white quartz pebbles and gravelly silty soil of the domaine
We were lucky to witness the bud break which starts in April and the first flowers will appear about 8 weeks later
The grapevines have been pruned using the "Guyot double" method

The well drain soil ensure very little moisture retention hence making the roots of the grapevines dig deep down to look for water and nutrients. What the roots of the grapevine picked up from the deep rock strata (in most cases limestone) will be translated to the secondary and complex aromas that one will get when nosing the finished product which is the wine. The loose sub soil also contain a lot of air pockets which insulates and protect the roots of the grapevines during cold winters.

The southerly facing slopes also ensure that the grapevines received the most sunlight throughout the year especially when the fruits developed and need sunlight to photosynthesize and produce sugar(and reduce acids) which is an important ingredient in the fermentation process.

Chateau Haut Brion is the proud owner of 51Ha of precious vineyard in Pessac Leognan. It is the smallest of the 5 first growth vineyard in Bordeaux. Slightly over 48 Ha are planted with Cabernet Sauvignon(45%), Merlot(40%) and Cabernet Franc(15%). Cabernet sauvignon gives wine structure  whilst Merlot gives it roundness and body and cabernet franc enhances the nose. One point to note here is that despite the high ratio of cabernet sauvignon grape varietal planted, the finished blend of grand cru reds from this chateau contain 55% of merlot varietal……very similar to the reds of Pomerol.

The remaining 3 Ha of vineyard are planted with sauvignon blanc and Semillon grape varietal for making the stunning and exiting and rare Haut Brion blanc.

This equates to roughly 700-800 cases per year! Believe you me…..this is very special.

The higher proportion of Merlot used at Haut Brion means that the red wine will not be as big and powerful as her counterpart chateaus in Medoc where cabernet sauvignon dominates. Infact the high proportion of merlot is similar to the great Pomerol reds except the gravelly sandy soil in Pessac produces a different wine compare with Pomerol’s clayey soil.
The first stainless steel Vats for primary fermentation in wine making was first used in Bordeaux in 1961 and Chateau Haut Brion was the pioneer with the rest following suit later on. At Chateau Haut Brion, all the parcel of grapes harvested are fermented in separate vats (one parcel one vat).
The ribs are actually the cooling system for these squeaky clean stainless steel vats

The temperature of the Vats are controlled by the cooling system using water running thru the ribs situated outside the tank. Fermentation is an exothermic reaction where heat is release. The heat also acts as a catalyst for the fermentation to speed up hence it is crucial that the temperature does not rise too high and fermentation get out of hand hence the need for a cooling system.

On completion of the fermentation and the “running off” completed, the wines are “blended”  at this stage where lesser parcels and grape varietal juices are mixed with great parcel juices and or grape varietal. I believe not many chateaus practice this as most wines are blended after the aging process in the cask or oak barrels.  Blending the wines at this stage requires vast knowledge in viniculture and also the local knowledge of the vineyards especially how it is affected by the current year's weather, micro climat, local soil variation, etc.

After blending, the wines goes thru the secondary fermentation where the malic acids are converted to lactic acids. This process is also call Malo-lactic fermentation where bacteria is added in a control environment to convert and reduce the harsher and tart acids to a softer acids. Very technical indeed.
It is after this that the wines are now put into new oak barrels. The oak releases its tannin into the wine contributing to the aromas. The oak also soak up some of the wines hence creating a small vacuum in the cask. The pressure differential then allow air(especially oxygen) to be slowly sucked into the cask through the pores in the oak. This process is the basis of aging the wine where the slow and slight oxidation contributes to the quality and complexity of the wine.
Neatly stacked new oak barrels containing the 2012 vintage
The cask are manufactured by Sequin Moreau, one of the oldest makers in Bordeaux

That was one hell of a shitload of educational stuff and information on the chateau that we picked up. Monkey made the notes whilst I snap away :)
Now it is time for us to roam the Chateau’s ground and monkey around a bit :)

stop monkeying around with the beast :)
Yes Monkey. Thats the same chateaux on the label of every bottle of Haut Brion wine
That perched beast roaring into the courtyard is actually guarding the chateau ground and a symbolic icon of Chateau Haut Brion
The bottles have a name given to it for its size. here goes.....from left to right.....Balthazar(named after one of the 3 wise men from the bible), imperial, double magnum, magnum and full(0,75lits standard wine bottle) and each size up means doubling the volume. Yes, Monkey we are going to taste these babies later :)
The chateau comes with a nice garden. The frenchies aristocrats really know how to live in style.....hence the french revolution i guess :)

And finally it was time for tasting.
The tasting room at Chateau Haut Brion is spacious and reminisce of pre French revolution aristocrat’s type of accommodation. Two reds were tasted.

The grand tasting room
The view from the tasting room which is the rear of the chateau
That's the water tank in the distance. The dilemma faced by growers are either too much water or not enuf water.....hence the standby water supply

The Chateau Haut Brion and another wine from her sister chateau across the road that’s Chateau le Mission Haut Brion. Both are 2007 vintage. Both the wines are made in the same way. The difference is the Terroir. Generally both wines are beautifully dense and deep red. Nose of black fruits such as black currents and blackberries dominates. There is good grip on the palate but seems a bit tight probably bcos of the youth. Tannins have begun to soften. As expected, the Haut Brion was more intense compare with the Le Mission or was it the mind playing tricks since the wines are not blinded J Both the finish was long and aromatic. It will be a beautiful wine a few more years down the road.

the two Haut Brion 2007 red wine

Monkey:-  where is the Haut Brion Blanc??
JS:- Errrrr…….dream on notti monkey :)

Well….it’s been a good, informative and enlightening visit albeit a short one,  to this prestigious chateau and we definitely took away with us a lot of new knowledge and experience. I believe our mind set(poor impression of Bordeaux wines) after this visit must have took a turn for the better in terms of how we see Bordeaux wines in a different light. This was really the first of our chateau hopping in Bordeaux and we have seen the best of the best……. Crème de la crème.

Thank you ST for the arrangement and the experience. The only disappointment that I would like to register was the fact that they did not open a Haut Brion Blanc for us in the tasting room :)
A few more pictures and some tourist stuff and we will be on our way……


One for the album and record to show that we had a good time. I'd
drink to Chateau Haut Brion.....anytime!
yammmmmmmmmmm seeeeennnnnnnnnnnnnggggggggggggg!!

Wednesday, May 22, 2013

Le Saint James *2 Michelin Stars*, Bouliac


JS booked us at this exceptional property for dinner....yes just for dinner...
if we are staying here that would be perfect HO HO HO HO HO

no I am not asking for the sky, this place is beautiful!!!! Situated about 20 minutes from the capital Bordeaux, it overlooked the Garonne River over to Bordeaux. Listed under one of the exceptional property by Relais & Chateau.

We have only stayed at a few Relais & Chateau properties before....each and every property was charming, very personalised, discrete and oh-la-la-la-la...makes u felt so so pampered.

That reminds me, I have yet to blog about another Relais & Chateau hotel we stayed in Champagne a few months ago....super nice...they even have turn down service for my lil hobbits. :)))))))

The view!!!!!
see wat I meant!!!! sparse green land of beautiful vineyard....the Garonne River...then u can spot the taller buildings such as the cathedral.


we spent the evening watching the Sun sets :)))))))

We got a really nice and beautiful table by the window, with no obstruction at all. Therefore u can have such spectacular view.....aaaaaAAAaaaaa...plus the sun sets at 9.08pm so we have the entire evening to watch the playful lights of dusk.


when such playful Amuse Bouche was presented, what do u have in mind?
usually it's the break it or make it impression thingy. Since amuse bouche is the first dish/tantalizer you gonna serve to ur diners, it has to make impressionssssssss...
so does dessert...the first and the last usually leave very deep memories in your palate and mind.


It was rather impressive but then again it's all about taste....
the goat cheese lollies was cute and no one on the table knows how to consume it.

Monkey: "U just lift it up and push it!!!! Don't tell me all of u never have that Lolly which u can blow whistle on?"
All of them gave me blank faces.

Monkey: "Ok confirmed u people are not 80s babies!!!!"
I had so much of those while growing up....:P


When it was first presented on the table, I thought the lil white tube was a fake prop stucked onto the plate....it looked like my Shu Uemura glue for my lashes :P

Later we were told to squeeze it into our food
really playful but in terms of taste it was full of Umami-ness....this is definitely confirmed Modern French :)))))))))))


A beautiful appetizer on a glass bowl
not only it looked beautiful...it was very yummy!!!!


Underneath all those yummy foam were fresh peas
I can't tell you how delicious fresh peas are...it's a revelation!!! Guess spring time is alwiz about fresh green produce huh? :)))) there was a tiny bits of thin bacon, wished there's more...I can alwiz substitute popcorns for movies with these crispy bits.


Scampi prepared 2 ways....lightly battered and lightly fried like a tempura
it was so delicate that when u sink ur teeth in, the jus and roe were bursting in ur mouth. With freshness from green apple jelly and caviar inside!!! What a lovely surprise.

That brown colored dollop was sauce was so intense and it tasted exactly like prawn head roe...oh it must be it!!!!


There were a huge selection of bread and this round one was so so so so so yummy
I Ching chose it first while I took the black olive bread. She let me tried some and it was like eating Twisties Curry flavour, with crunchy corn bits!!!! before I was done chewing the only bite stolen from I Ching, my hands were raised asking for the bread basket to be delivered again to our table...so I can have one piece on my own...hahahahah



I couldn't remember the name of the fish that we had...but it was so delicately done!!!!
EXCELLENT!!!!
all doused with seasonal mushrooms it was pretty earthy. Paired so well with the wines.

It's alwiz a treat to have these babies :))))))
We had the privilege to visit Chateau Haut-Brion, one of the 5 First Growth in Bordeaux. JS will blog about this visit soon :)))))


the Main course was PORK!!!!
we went ecstatic hahahahhaaha....when the special gastronimique menu was chosen - meaning you eat wat chef cooked...the Waitress asked if we were allergic to any kind of food...and our usual answer would be....fingers pointing at JS and said...he doesn't take Chicken/Duck/Birds/Pigeon/Patridge etc

-_-"

anyway back to the pork...look at the fats lining the meat....
the carrot was so straight and symmetry. we then analyzed that they must have cut it with a tubular cutter to make it this perfect.



the cheese cart looked so tempting....but our other dearie friends don't take cheese...so we'll skip it this time around. Bcoz they can't stand the smell.

anyhow we bought so much of cheese back to Malaysia.....both JS and Monkey have been enjoying them everyday after dinner. It's definitely better than eating Durian LOL!!!!!


the first installation of many desserts to come. This one was made from cheese...hahahahha

Meringue with exotic fruits gelee
really refreshing :))))))))))

You know it's so difficult to make desserts this detailed and fine
I didn't wanna eat them bcoz it's so pretty!!!!!

a deconstructed Mille Feuile
oh so light and yet complex. Lurve the crunch, texture and taste :))))
all of the desserts came in small bites.

sugar for coffee in Canele form!!!! so cute!!!!
Where can I get these?
I don't see them at the usual gourmet sugar supplier - Canasuc

and our petit four was served on this lil wheelie white dish
lemon bites, chocolate mousse and creme puffs
U have no idea how tiny and cute they were...how on earth do u make these so effortlessly?


after dinner, we had a sneak peek of their kitchen. But it's already almost midnite and everyone's cleaning their work station. It's not big but it's so complete and tidy with jars of condiments and spices.

Le Saint James have got a cooking school too if you are interested :)))))))))




its corridor was decked with art pieces from a french artist :))))))))
such novelty of staying here :))))))))



we had lil souvenirs to be brought home too
:))))))))))))))))

Anyway we were staying at a really nice hotel as well back in Bordeaux
it is the best and grandest but what we love most was its LOCATION!!!! bahahahaha. Right smack in the centre dot of the city. Everything was within walking distance - to the park, to the river, to the bazaar, to the main sights and attraction, to the other restaurants and main attractions.

Thank you to Flatmate Amy for booking us here. :))))))))) U are such a lucky gal to stay here for WORK!!!! Don't think my boss will enjoy looking at my bills if I stayed in fancy hotels like this for work :P bahahahahaha

Le Saint James Restaurant *2 Michelin Stars*
3 Place Camille Hostein,
33270 Bouliac,

Bordeaux, France.
Tel: +33 (0)5 5797 0600

www.saintjames-bouliac.com