Thursday, November 20, 2014

Les Halles de Lyon Paul Bocuse

It's like the mecca of food here in Lyon. A Market built originally to house vendors and local producers in the region since 1859. Over the course of the century, renovations, relocations, re-imaging and finally the latest works were done in 2006 with Paul Bocuse lending his legendary name to this avant garde looking market.

Yes it's a market not some corporate office nor modern art museum. Only the very best regional products were presented here. At the same time, there are a few stalls selling the finest international produce such as tea and spices. Les Halles de Lyon is owned and run by the City Council so each vendor will need to apply to do business here.

After our massive hike up hills, down some monuments, crossed a 2 rivers, round the ancient city and then to the newer part of Lyon....we were super hungry and walked another few more kms to this market for a rather late lunch. U can imagine I was so famish....need food~~~~~~~

JS insisted that we must do lunch at AOC, tucked at the corner of this avant garde looking market near to the front entrance. I was glad that we didn't have to walk around looking for AOC bcoz this place is a massive 13,500 sqm!!!!

Monkey was almost in tears when she finally got to sit down. HAHAHAHA no, actually it was the strong wind out there that made me teared. Just too dry!!!!

My hair was perpetually on a ponytail like this during our vacation, started from Lyon and all the way down to Marseille...coz this is the best "tie" that gathered all my hair together. Else I would end up looking like a walking mop in the streets. Hair flying around 360*.

Can u imagine the wind reached an average of 50km/h and the gust is up to 110km/h. We almost flew away at times especially in Marseille and for the first time, I seriously had to cling onto the bus stop *even though I wasn't waiting for a bus* while JS was clinging on to some street lights. Gosh~~~~~

It's a very very and extremely clean market. Just look at that!!!! Bars and bistros and restaurants lined the aisles. This is like my kinda "happy hour" place hohohohohohoho. Right now in Malaysia it's Pavilion, after-work happy hour. My face is the discount card. Staffs think I run and own Pavilion KL including the valet guys. Thanks for looking me this up. Hohohohohoho. Nope, I don't wanna own nor run Pavilion. I prefer to be their client instead.

There's so much to eat and buy eyes and senses went crazy darting left to right trying to digest everything here.

not to mention lunch here is very cheap. For a starter, a main and a dessert, it's only Euro 15.50!!!

and the wines here!!! wahhhh a market selling all these wines!!! unbelievable!!!

the happy hour crowd. :))))))))) nice. May I join u people? Actually these are vendors working in the market, post-lunch hour is pretty quiet so wat do u do, head down the bar a few metres away and be happy and jolly!!!!

JS: "Monkey wat are u buying??? we just ate lunch!!!!"

JS dearie...only one tiny wenny little small small canele...ok?
JS: "Look at ur tummy!! fat fat ady~~~~"

and while munching on my tiny weeny canele, I was browsing through the cheese....oh yums~~~~

and artisanal butter....I wanna take all of you home!!!!

CHEESE!!!!! cheese~~~~~~~

the expensive and highly regarded chicken from only white birds - Poulet de Bresse. Strictly controlled with its own AOC since 1957. Yeah even chickens have its own gradings like wines. In fact butters and cheese as well. Really, it's so yummy I declared it the best chicken in the world. Wait till I blog bout the damn awesome superb bresse chicken I had a few days later at Paul Bocuse's main restaurant. The father of French cuisine, prepared the King of all poultry in such awesome yummyness. The experience was outta body!!!!

Grilled Bresse Chicken at the 3 Michelin starred L'Arpege in Paris used to be my top top top best chicken dish in the it's Paul Bocuse. aaaaahhh~~~~ but I still lurve Alain Passard's creations in L'Arpege, Paris. 

Words can't describe so just stare at all the pics la....I can't help but have tasting of everything possible~~~~

this I can't taste bcoz it's raw...but it's the first time I m looking at pork with such high and beautiful fat marbling on it. So so so so beautiful. Why are the fats so well distributed like threads and threads of fats lined in between the meat???

Yes if u noticed by now, Lyon is famous for its charcuterie. Hams, sausages, terrines, confits, pate~~~~ heaven~~~~~~

and finally we arrived at the desserts and sweets department.
hmmmm now which one to get?
I wished to have one sampling of each flavours but ....but....hmmmm. This is so difficult~~~

hmmm very interesting...coca-cola macarons. :)))))))
should I???? oh well it's a vacation so~~~~

Paul Bocuse's beautiful handwritting on this postcard displayed at Chocolatier Seve. The pralines were heavenly....aaaaaAAAhhhhhhhhhhhhhh

and JS caught me again......

like a guilty child I had to explain myself~~~
"But but...but......but ....I've never tasted a coca-cola macarons before!!!"
JS -_-"

so yummy and awesome with excellent texture. I can come here everyday~~~~oh les Halles de Lyon, I wanna marry you~~~~

Les Halles de Lyon Paul Bocuse
102 Cours  Lafayette,
69003 Lyon,
Tel: +33 4 7862 3933

Wednesday, November 19, 2014

Les Potager des Halles, Lyon

We stood still on the bridge watching the sun sets as we were headed for dinner. Aaaahhh so beautiful, the clouds looked fluffier somehow and I wanted to touch it with my fingers. Ever since I was a lil gal, I've alwiz wondered wat's the texture of the clouds, wat's the sound like if I were to touch it against its background. Will it give me some raspy sound or just soft velvety swish?

haiii....the imagination of a 4 year old then. A child can really be as creative as he or she wants to be. I've been alone since I was a toddler under really minimum adult supervision *that explains why I'm so notti* so u can't really blame me if u gonna tell this notti monkey that you can't really touch the clouds nor it's gonna make any sounds.

today, reflecting back on my childhood, I'm glad that despite being independent, strong and hard-headed, I didn't turn out to be some hooligans or watsoever. 

Those are not REAL windows. It's a mural on the entire piece of the wall. Such beautiful was painted all the way from the bottom to its roof. Yea those are not real shops either on the ground floor. Lyonnaise, that's what you call the locals here....lurve to paint the buildings this way. Especially those with no windows. Don't u think it's so pretty? Instead of a blank walls, now u see some really nicely painted ones with perpsective on it. Yeah the size has to be right, so when viewed at every angle it should look REAL.

When we arrived at Lyon on that very afternoon, our superb hotel concierge was so so helpful and amazing. Introducing her love for the city known for its amazing cuisine, endless eats and most of all the Capital of Gastronomy in France.

So of coz there are the few recommendations but we wanted to go to places WHERE SHE WOULD GO. That's the key word....I want to go to where you will go for your dinner.

and soon she made reservation for us at the popular local joint Les Potager des Halles situated by the Saone River. It has got a bistro - Le Bistrot du Potager at the corner run by the same boss. At the bistro, they don't take reservation so you just need to come and try your luck or queue. We were lucky that we dined at the restaurant instead bcoz the queue was unbelievable later towards the evening.

The tiny kitchen is located on the ground level. It's really really really tiny, reminded me of Japan. But the entire team here worked in such manner that nobody crash nor bang into each other especially when all these dangerous items like hot pots pans and knives are everywhere.

amuse bouche of tiny creme puffs with some really yummu savoury fillings of cream cheese and anchovies I think. Dusted with fragrant herbs powder.

Homemade pork sausages with grilled octopus and tomatoes which came in lovely green and the usual red. It was so sweet!!! the extra virgin olive oil was amazing, almost apple green. A few pieces of cheese added creaminess to this appetizer.

This was my appetizer, nope it's not desserts. Roots vegetables mashed, sprinkled with crispy lards and some other surprises as well. Really good texture!!!

When you are at Rhone Valley, drink Rhones!!! hehehehehe

JS couldn't resist some good quality beef done this well, char-grilled on the outside, u can still see the specks of salt on top. While I was bz eyeing the grilled eggplants. It looked and tasted PERFECT!!!

I chose the beautiful grilled seabream fillet on top of risotto and porcini mushroms. The risotto was so buttery, fish was grilled to a good crisp skin. Hearty and simple food but so so so awesome.

JS and his smellie cheese. We do enjoy cheeses a lot....especially aged ones. Despite its strong taste and smell, it's pretty addictive and only here in France u can get awesome artisanal ones like this.

To be fair, we must try a Sweet/Desserts bcoz a dinner is as memorable as its desserts. We ordered a chocolat fondant with vanilla creme and ice creams.

wow perfect!!! it's so thin. This one has been mastered with perfect timing and texture. So velvety!!! I wanna re-learn this again to make it THIS GOOD!!!

Read bout our attempt in making the perfect chocolat fondant *click here*

after dinner, instead of the it's the Moon's turn to come out to play. :)))))))))) The scenery and buildings here were so memorable to me, it just reminded me of the jigsaw puzzles my grandma bought me....yea at 5, I was assembling jigsaw puzzles with buildings by the Rhone River. I m truly an old soul trapped in another body. Everyone agrees, and I am sure you would too if u know me.

JS shall we hitch a ride on this Vespa to get back to our hotel?
JS: "No we shall walk and burn off all the calories."

and we walked and walked and sang silly songs along the way. Climbed up the hill to reach our hotel which was perched on the Fourviere Hill. It was an amazing hotel, which commands an even more amazing view of the entire city.

voila!!!! and here we are. Villa Florentine is an old 15th century Convent, today it has been purchased and developed into a really nice hotel.

Les Potager des Halles is highly recommended, reservation is a must!!

Les Potager des Halles
3 Rue de la Martiniere,
69001 Lyon,
Tel: +33 4 7200 2484