Showing posts with label Reims. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Reims. Show all posts

Tuesday, January 08, 2013

Chartogne Taillet


It was a cold morning sometime in November
we had an appointment with the champagne winemaker himself at 9.30am
so driving around and getting lost in these small french villages is not an option. We must arrive at the destination on time!!!! GAH!!!!!

What a relief when we saw this huge signage
not every winemaker is bothered with installing branding like this.

Chartogne Taillet is situated in a village called Merfy with a population of not more than 650 people. So u don't want to get lost here, coz there's no one we can ask for directions....except the horses and the cows and dogs.




Les Champagnes de Vignerons
The word Vigneron doesn't mean only Growers

It's a huge word emphasizing the winegrowers, who also cultivate his/her vineyard to a specific terroir, they are also deeply involved in viticulture of the wines...thus making the wines which further enhance/show their terroir. In huge wine/champagne companies, vigneron are employed and highly sought-after for their knowledge and skills. However most of them are on their own working in their vineyard, experimenting in their labs, studying the soil, the weather,.....well the list goes on.


We were the lucky few to be invited to ChartogneTaillet's home and the place where he creates all his beautiful champagnes. Big thanks to Henry H for the big arrangement :))))))))



We were soon ushered into the warmth of his lounge which was built on the top floor. Beautifully designed to assimilate the tradition of french home and the modern use of glass and steel.

And in less than 5 minutes, our Geography lesson started.....
No I'm not kidding you. The 3rd generation of Chartogne Taillet, Alexandre is now the owner and vigneron of this fantastic champagne. When he took over from his father, the first thing he did was to study and examine the soil of all his vineyards.

Each parcel was dug to examine the type of soil and also the roots of his vines. Alexandre then proceeded with mapping all his parcel of vines. It's a painstaking classification but according to him, if you want to start something....u have to go down to its root and in this case this was precisely what he did :)))


After our geography lesson was done....it's History lesson
I'm not kidding u again!!!
>.<


in heavily binded leather copies were notes from his ancestors on the winemaking techniques and "recipes" :))))

Alexandre added that he's really lucky because there were notes left from the 19th century by his ancestors. Together with his studies on soil, roots and plants - Alexandre managed to produce champagnes by maximising what he has, at his property.

Next we begin with tasting....
yeah I know it was 10am in the morning but again...it's never too early for champagnes
:))))))))) heeeeeeeeeeeeeee


Alexandre then brought us to his playground :)))))
the cellar



I don't know how do u arrange that neatly by hands
I can't even have proper arrangement inside my shoes rack!!!!!!


Capped bottle before disgorgement
all champagnes are kept this way to allow the sediment to rest at the bottle of the neck

When the winemaker decides it's time to disgorge, all these caps will be popped out to "flush" the sediments. This method had been done many hundreds of years ago but in today's environment it is practiced much more safely. Many a times people lost their thumb disgorging champagnes. The pressure popping outta the bottle is just too much.


Seen here, Alexandre popped another bottle for us to drink inside the cool chill cellar
underground cellar usually maintains its temperature all year round. Doesn't matter if it's winter or summer....that's the beauty of it and makes good storage for wines.


Yes...it's quite chilling in here....you will def need a jacket and a glass of wines/champagnes to warm your body up...hehehehehehe


Alexandre is really passionate about winemaking. He's really young but full of philosophies and principles when it comes to his champagnes. Again his love for terroir fuel his passion in winemaking. He only plowed his land with animals and not with machines. If you've been following this blog, u'll understand why :)))))

There were a few clay barrel inside his cellar. Not many winemakers used clay to age their wines. This was such a delight for me to see.

Because there are sand and clay over chalk - the character of his soil, the roots of the vines needed to go down deep to extract the minerals. According to Alex, it can go down as deep as 20 metres. And of coz he vinified each parcel separately. There's a hell lot of work!!!!


Hence I don't mind offering myself to work here for errrrr free champagnes???
Yes he prollie needs help to turn the bottles each day. A certain degree a day to slowly move the sediments down to the bottle neck. I really don't mind, especially how often do u get a good looking boss? tee hee hee :)))))))))))


Then JS showed me this area....

JS: "Hey look!!! there's machines used to turn hundreds and thousands of champagnes each day in a precise degree calculated by the computer. Definitely faster and more precise than your hands."
he beamed his cheeky smiles

Monkey -_-" mother....
you don't spoil my plans la......


As we emerged out from the cellar at another exit, we have a glimpse of Alexandre's beautiful garden where he enjoys a nice sunny day BBQ-ing with his family and children...well only during non-winter months hahahahha.


We then proceeded back to the lounge for more tasting and discussions.
Alexandre also used very low dosage of sugar in his champagnes. All makers need to add some sugar into each bottle because all the natural sugar in the champagnes would be aged and fermented into alcohols. The less sugar it has, the drier the champagnes.


It was such an educational meeting with Alexandre
the more we learnt the more we realised we didn't know :P
now we popped every bottle open with more appreciation. :))))


Before we take our leave and bid farewell.....a pic with the Vigneron himself :)))
JS looked so tiny next to him hehehehehehehe

Big thank you to Henry H our ever reliable wine merchant for this visit
and most of all thank you to Alexandre for this hospitality and imparting knowledge and skills to us. I can see now our cellar is piling high with more champagnes but I'm not complaining :))))


Thursday, December 06, 2012

A.Lallement *3 Michelin Stars*

Quaint lil restaurant at a beautiful property, set in an old mansion with old charm
Assiette Champenoise is also a hotel, listed under the Chateau and Relais it is one of the must-stay place :))))

I guess our main focus was the food at its 3 michelin starred restaurant
the above pic was taken from our room
JS booked us into a large suite and what a change from Paris. Quiet, green, friendly, calm were the words used to describe this place.

Arnaud Lallement is really a young, capable and established chef.
The business of this hotel and restaurant was handed to him by his beloved father while he was 26. Such huge responsibility at this age huh? I guess I was still finding myself at 26 >.<

under the watchful eyes of his father, Arnaud earned his first michelin star after 4 years in the kitchen. But I dunno why in life, happy event follows sad ones *or either way*, and the Lallement Senior passed away just after a few months enjoying the fruits of hard labour by his son.

In order to maintain the tradition and values the father has achieved since 1975, most of the buildings and mansions and gardens and trees and statues of the properties were maintained. We just love it here :))))

So I guess it was totally worth cancelling Les Crayeres to stay here huh?
well life is short, I've only got a week here in Champagne so I must fully utilise all the opportunities to stay and dine and try all the good things offered here.

Canapes with aperitifs = a glass of KRUG cuvee what else :)))))
such petite and meticulously assembled lil bite size yummy goodness
that "ball" rolled out of its position, not the waiting staffs' fault....it was either JS or mine as we were pushing the plate around for photography....even when it rolled out of position, we can still accept the standard of the pic and its merchandising of subject -_-
Guess our tummy were rumbling to care so much

Lallement strived to achieved a balance of exciting taste and texture
so these petite canapes were very well thought of - tantalized anyone's taste buds :))))

DANGER!!!! crusty yummy bread!!!!
don't fill your stomach with it...but it proved too good and too difficult to resist


esp with its top quality butter
salted vs unsalted
we were contemplating about carrying gourmet butter home to Malaysia but it's just too hassle. 

but the butter was amazing....I finished the above platter on my own >.<told ya the bread spells DANGER!!!
I had another different one....just so good~~~~
the moment u tear them apart, the crust broke beautifully with a crunch, unveiling its soft airy bread
if preparing my own sourdough and feed them for ages in the fridge will produce such high quality bread, I will consider getting another fridge at home just to store the sourdough/levain.

our amuse bouche - sorry after one month I totally forgotten what it was.....

I have stopped taking notes during dinner bcoz it scare the shit outta the restaurant
usually it's me writing and JS snapping pics
and the Maitre D will enquire if we were from some form of publication or food critique...

then I resorted to typing and taking notes with my iPhone and it was deemed too rude to use your phone on the table esp in France.
-_-"

so these days, JS will utilise his small little "non-evasive" camera at the restaurant
*that cost 6 arms and 6 legs, prollie I only make about that much a year*
and me relying on my deteriorating memory due to alcohol consumptions.
Please bear with us.

pan seared St Jacques scallops  served on top of caramelized beets
the beets were cut to resemble leaves then caramelized with balsamic

Emulsion of vegetables and pumpkin
autumn is the season for pumpkins and other root vegetables
think Halloween!!! hehehehehhehe

I don't know how he did the fish, the outer part was so crispy while its meat was just cooked
moist soft sweet~~~

Arnaud Lallement trained under the belts of France's great names in the culinary world
I guess when u were trained young this way, you have more years to explore and execute your potentials


Great food needs to be paired with excellent wines and champagnes
I did not expect JS to order this bottle....
KRUG Clos du Mesnil 1992
this was only my 2nd experience, what a luxury and how lucky!!!

the 1st time, it was for someone's very important and big birthday --> GOE
that was back in 2010
not everyday u can pop this bottle

Later once we finished the bottle *surprisingly it was gone really fast*
the sommelier displayed the bottle next to our table by this cleverly designed pillar
now the whole restaurant knew we popped this -_-"
not to show off but we Asians prefer to be low profile.

Arnaud Lallement
and Olivier KRUG has a long standing partnership *about 12 years*
the restaurant prepared dishes that perfectly match KRUG's champagnes

the much anticipated main course came
BLACK PIG!!!!
oh yummms~~~~
the best pork in the world!!!!!

just a spoonful of sauce only, you don't want to drown it right?
served with carefully prepared root vegetables and beets
well done!!!! very well executed with the pairing of ingredients, texture and taste
finally the presentation was so fine
I mean you don't expect this kind of food in a small town right?

Next artisan cheeses from Phillipe Olivier
there were so many types and as usual by the time he was describing the 5th one, I've forgotten what's the first....

but he was very patient with us....and repeated it over and over as he go round the table to serve the four of us~~~~~
my tummy can only accommodate one type of soft and one hard cheese
and so I had my favourite creamy epoisse and an aged hard cheese
*I had epoisse last nite after dinner too :))))*
both were served with a dried berries rye bread

nobody can beat this bugger - Dinos the Great
indeed he's the great when it comes to cheeses

a selection of 3 types of cheese is pretty standard but he had more than 12???
in fact he needed 2 plates
luckily we didn't need to wheel him outta the restaurant after the meal
hohohohohohoho

100% chocolate
looked like an UFO rite?

Sinful but awesome!!!!
the plate was dusted with cocoa powder so evenly
talk about meticulous, this chef is a perfectionist

Passion
soft egg white with sugar almost souffle-liked, served on thin waffle
actually this was really souffle interpreted differently
how the hell do u actually cut a souffle this way???

Pear
Pear is an intricate construction from the fruit
the thin jelly, the caramelized pieces.....
all the hardwork for something I chomp down easily

then came every gal's fav course - petit four!!!!
it was an elaborate ones
Chef created famous petit four from all regions in France but with his own interpretations
the above in house chocolate was presented in a silver Cocoa-liked tray with a cover

Biscotti with lemonie delight on top
he dusted it with kaffir lime zest
elevated it to the next level
I noticed he alwiz gave more instead of according to head count so his guests could enjoy more

Caneles!!!!

OOOPPPSSSSSSS
I was caught in the action, not with one but 2 candy floss!!!!

Never eaten such candy floss BECAUSE......it wasn't sticky at all!!
it was light and very very enjoyable
I can't describe...I wished there was more, even though I was given two
lick left lick right
heeeeeeeeeeee :)))))))))))))))


Truly another eye opener experience at A.Lallement
I have expected differently at this place, maybe I've been setting the bar too high. Hope to return here again :)))))))))

A.Lallement *3 Michelin Stars*
40 Avenue Paul Vaillant Couturier
51430 Tinqueux,
France.
Tel: 06 2684 6464

www.assiettechampenoise.com